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# Assembling Your AirCube
This guide walks through putting an AirCube together from printed parts and a populated PCB -- **Base** first, then **Pro**. Each model takes about ten minutes with a single screwdriver.
You'll need a populated AirCube PCB. If you don't have one, grab the [AirCube Populated PCB](https://stuckatprototype.com/products/aircube-populated-pcb) or build one from the KiCad files in [kicad/](kicad).
> Already assembled? Head back to **[Getting Started](README.md#getting-started)**.
---
## What You Need
| Item | Notes |
|------|-------|
| **3x M2 x 5 mm screws** | Self-tapping, for plastic. Longer screws work too -- they just bottom out deeper. |
| **Small Phillips screwdriver** | PH0 or similar. Hand-driven, no power tools. |
| **Populated AirCube PCB** | Base or Pro. |
| **All printed parts for your model** | See below. |
### Printed parts
**Base** -- files in [mechanical/base](mechanical/base):
- `AirCube bottom_prod_12-11.step` -- bottom shell, holds the PCB
- `AirCube top 20mm PROD.step` -- top shell
- `AirCube air wall 11-7-43.3mf` -- air wall, separates the sensor from the rest of the cube
**Pro** -- files in [mechanical/pro](mechanical/pro):
- `AirCube bottom_prod_12-11.step` -- bottom shell, holds the PCB
- `AirCube_top-7-16-26-716.stl` -- top shell
- `AirCube_air_wall_7-14-26-1149.stl` -- air wall
- `AirCube_light_wall-7-10-26-1034.stl` -- light wall, shapes the LED glow
- `AirCube_button_7-15-26-514.stl` -- button cap
Print everything before you start. A missing air wall means taking the whole cube apart again.
---
## Base Assembly
### 1. Gather your screws
Three **M2 x 5 mm** self-tapping screws. Longer screws are fine.
### 2. Print all the parts
Bottom, top, and air wall -- all three on the bench before you begin.
### 3. Drop in the PCB, USB-C end first
Angle the board so the USB-C connector slides into its opening in the bottom shell, then lower the rest of the board flat into the pocket.
### 4. Fit the front screw only
The bottom shell has three screw holes. Drive only the one nearest the front edge for now -- it holds the PCB down and sets up the alignment for the air wall.
Leave the other two holes empty until the top is on.
### 5. Install the air wall
Drop the air wall into the cutout as pictured. It should sit flat against the PCB with no gap along the side wall.
### 6. Install the top
Lower the top onto the bottom. Line it up so the USB-C opening at the back stays fully clear -- if the port is pinched or partly covered, lift the top and reseat it.
### 7. Secure the first screw
Drive the front screw home. **Snug, not tight** -- these are self-tapping screws in plastic and it's easy to strip the thread.
### 8. Install the other two screws
Same treatment for the remaining two holes. Done.
---
## Pro Assembly
Pro adds two parts to the Base sequence: a button cap and a light wall.
### 1. Gather your screws
Three **M2 x 5 mm** self-tapping screws. Longer screws are fine.
### 2. Print all the parts
Bottom, top, air wall, light wall, and button cap.
### 3. Put the button into the enclosure
Drop the button cap into its slot in the bottom shell from the inside. It goes in before the PCB -- the board is what holds it captive.
### 4. Drop in the PCB, USB-C end first
Angle the board so the USB-C connector slides into its opening, then lower it flat. Check the button cap is still seated and moves freely against the switch.
### 5. Fit the front screw only
Drive only the screw nearest the front edge. It holds the PCB down and sets up the alignment for the air wall.
### 6. Install the light wall
Slide the light wall into its pocket along the side wall, as pictured.
### 7. Install the air wall
Drop the air wall into the cutout as pictured. It should sit flat with no gap along the side wall.
### 8. Install the top
Lower the top on, lined up so the USB-C opening at the back stays fully clear.
### 9. Secure the first screw
Drive the front screw home. **Snug, not tight** -- self-tapping screws strip plastic threads easily.
### 10. Install the other two screws
Same treatment for the remaining two holes. Done.
---
## Tips and Troubleshooting
**Don't overtighten.** Every screw here is a self-tapping screw biting into printed plastic. Stop as soon as it feels snug -- another quarter turn is how you strip the hole.
**Check the USB-C opening before you drive any screws.** With the top resting in place, look down the back face. The port should be fully exposed. Clamping a misaligned top down with screws can crack the shell.
**Air wall won't sit flush?** Back the front screw out a turn or two, reseat the air wall, then retighten. The front screw sets PCB alignment, so a board that's sitting slightly proud leaves the wall standing off.
**Button feels stuck (Pro)?** Take the top off and check the cap is square in its slot. It should have a little free travel and click against the switch on the board.
**Stripped a screw hole?** A slightly longer M2 screw usually bites into fresh plastic deeper down.
---
## Next Steps
| | |
|---|---|
| [Getting Started](README.md#getting-started) | Power it up and read the LED |
| [Firmware Update Guide](FIRMWARE_UPDATE.md) | Flash the latest firmware from your browser |
| [Home Assistant Guide](HOME_ASSISTANT.md) | ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT setup |
| [Contributing Guide](CONTRIBUTING.md) | Build from source, hardware and firmware architecture |